VILLA PANZA
WEBSITE: WWW.FONDOAMBIENTE.IT
LOCATION: VILLA PANZA, PIAZZA LITTA, 1, 21100 VARESE VA, ITALY
NEAREST AIRPORTS: MALPENSA AIRPORT, MILAN, 45 MINUTES DRIVE
If there was a way of making a delightful drive through the Milanese countryside even more enjoyable, make a stop at Villa Panza for lunch and a visit of their notable collection of American minimalist art. Overlooking the town of Varese, the villa is an 18th century Italian mansion, surrounded by manicured topiary gardens. And Restaurant Luce, serving up local delicacies, will not disappoint.
The villa was built in the 18th century by Marquis Paolo Antonio Menafoglio who chose this spot on Biumo Hill to build his residence. It had a few other owners before it found its way to Count Giuseppe Panza who acquired the property in the 50s and started filling it with art, changing its character and slowly building its reputation around the world for the collection.
Count Panza was smart to not alter the fabric of the building itself, instead opting to balance the contemporary with the classical architecture. He dedicated the Stable Block (it is big, do not be deceived by its apparent smallness from the outside) to site specific commissions from artists such as Dan Flavin, James Turrell and Robert Irwin, created a sort of ‘Temple to Light Art’. To walk through it is to be bathed in colour and be set on by nothingness, which is both spiritual and unnerving.
The gardens too have been beautifully cared for with a sweeping view of the city below and distant hills. There are works dotted around with some recent additions by Sean Scully, whose glass panes created for the Greenhouse as part of his temporary exhibition have been permanently adopted, or Robert Wilson’s bespoke shed. You can stroll around and breath in some fresh country air before heading in to the restaurant, Luce, for bean stew and fresh pasta.
It might seem odd to have a collection of American Minimalist Art in an Italian Villa but when experienced, one can appreciate how international this work truly is. It crossed borders and blends beautifully in time, none of it looks dated. As well as the permanent collection, the administration stages temporary exhibitions to encourage repeat visits and interpret the collection in new ways. They also host events and activities such as birdwatching or talks so it is worth checking the site before your visit to see what else might be on, as well as to book your visit.
