FONDATION CARMIGNAC
WEBSITE: WWW.FONDATIONCARMIGNAC.COM
LOCATION: PORQUEROLLES ISLAND, FRANCE
NEAREST AIRPORTS: MARSEILLE PROVENCE AIRPORT, 2 HOUR DRIVE
Porquerolles Island has been put on the map. It might not have been the first place that comes to mind to visit in the Côte d’Azur. But with steep cliff coasts accessible only by hiking on the southern side, and turquoise crystal waters on the northern, and the recent addition of Fondation Carmignac, it should certainly be on your top ten.
Photo: Lionel Barbe
Nils Udo. La Couvée, 2018. Photo: Nils Udo
The foundation was set up by Eduard Carmignac, an international asset manager with a passion for the arts. He discovered Porquerolles when he visited the remote island for a wedding and loved the place so much that he, of course, bought a large chunk of it. The foundation itself is dedicated to showcasing the corporate collection that usually lives in Paris and an annual Photojournalism Award. The collection is of over 300 works of art and includes Warhol, Basquiat and Roy Lichtenstein, all of whom were pals of Eduard in the 80’s. They were responsible for waking his passion for the arts and, when he could afford it, collecting. The Island measures less than five square miles and is home to just over 200 inhabitants. So when I say remote, I mean remote.
The main pavilion and gallery is a subterranean build and extends under a converted former farmhouse. As the island is a protected National Park, Cormignac had little choice but to build down, but the design is so well executed that you don’t feel underground, not least for the ‘pool ceiling’ in main gallery that lets plenty of light through.
What might strike visitors are odd is that we are asked to remove our shoes when entering the gallery. Now, when I first encountered this I was a little furious as I didn’t particularly want to remove my shoes. But as I swished around the prestienely clean floor admiring the art, I did start appreciating the silence and reverence being barefoot created. No clicking of heels against the hard floors, and the cool stone was very pleasant against my feet. My advice would be; chill out and enjoy the ride.
Surrounding the gallery are 15-hectars of parkland landscaped by designer Louis Benech, whose interventions seem light-touch to maintain the feeling of wilderness. “This is a protected site so it’s normal that we should respect the environment,” Carmignac says. “We’ve had an ecologist spend a whole year here to make sure that we would protect the little pathways for the turtles and some very rare orchids that only exist in this part of the world.”
Apart from mini-turtles and flora, the park has over 15 site specific sculptures to see by Ugo Rondinone, Ed Ruscha, Jaume Plensa, and Tom Friedman to name a few. They are spread out around the grounds so you will get a good walk in while you explore. They have also varies the landscape so that you walk through woods, open fields, and, a particular favourite, a bamboo maze.
There is a small organic coffee shop outside by the entrance, but you might like to head back to the main village near the post where there are a few nice lunch options. Or even better, make a full weekend of it and stay on to enjoy the natural delights Porquerolles has to offer.
Left: Jeppe Hein, Path of Emotions, 2018. Right: Jaume Plensa, Les trois alchimistes, 2018
