THE WONDERFUL MR PANZA
Villa Panza, in the art world, is a thing of legends. The ghost of Giuseppe Panza di Biumo, one of the most important post-war collectors, is ever-present, keeping an eye on his collection of Minimalist American contemporary art. His influence is undoubtedly vast, as were his pockets, with much of his collection acquired by the Guggenheim in the early 90s.
I visited Villa Panza in 2019 where many of his site-specific commissions are still on view and was not disappointed. It is a beautifully enjoyable experience, from driving up to the property, walking through the Donald Judd corridors, and James Turrell rooms, to settling in for a delicious lunch. The place screams good taste, love, and dedication.
Villa Panza is an art world secret which I am sharing with you today. What I didn't realise was that Panza also donated quite a substantial amount in the restoration of Castello Di Rivoli, Italy's first museum of contemporary art near Turin. It attracts people from all over the world - so not just an art lover but also a visionary on how to make Turin attractive to tourism and improve the local economy. Absolutely places to visit when you are next in Italy.
If there was a way of making a delightful drive through the Milanese countryside even more enjoyable, make a stop at Villa Panza for lunch and a visit of their notable collection of American minimalist art. Overlooking the town of Varese, the villa is an 18th century Italian mansion, surrounded by manicured topiary gardens. And Restaurant Luce, serving up local delicacies, will not disappoint.
The architecture of Castello Di Rivoli, the site of the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea of Rivoli, is perhaps the most striking thing you will notice as you drive up above the city of Turin to visit. First mentioned in the 9th century, the site has been built, rebuilt, burnt, bombed, abandoned, collapsed, and destroyed by passing armies for over 10 centuries. Rather than deny it its history, the modern day restoration celebrates its cuts and bruises, incorporating the half ruins and unfinished attempts at rehabilitation creating a maze of history that tells the tale of extraordinary prosperity and careless destruction.