VIENNA
Ah Vienna! The elegance! The style! little has been lost of its other-world grandeur. It is easy to be overwhelmed by its history and the Hapsburg presence is ever dominating. However, with being the home of the Vienna Secession and the revamped ViennaContemporary art fair, there is much art to enjoy between black-tie dinners and classical concerts.
ALBERTINA
WEBSITE: WWW.ALBERTINA.AT
VISIT TIME: 1 HOUR
The breadth of Vienna’s history is mapped on the facade of The Albertina. Once court offices, then palatial residence, the building was heavily damaged during WWII making room for the renovation and new entrance hall. Go for the graphic collection which is the largest and most extensive of its kind from Old Masters (Dürer’s beautiful Hare and Hands folded in prayer, da Vinci) to the modern greats (Klimt, Picasso). This museum was very lucky having received two major collections on permanent loan following the financial crisis from the Essl family, and the generosity of the Batliner family. A must.
ÖSTERREICHISCHE GALERIE BELVEDERE
WEBSITE: WWW.BELVEDERE.AT
VISIT TIME: 2 HOURS
To learn about the Hapsburg empire-by-picture, follow the chronological order of the Belvedere Galleries. You hit two birds with one stone as it also details the progress of Austrian Art to present day. For me, by a mile, the stars of the collection are the Klimt (the largest collection in the world), Schiele, and Kokoshka. The grounds are incredibly impressive with an upper and lower palace building, an Orangerie, and beautifully kept gardens.
MUSEUM MODERNER KUNST (MUMOK)
WEBSITE: HTTPS://WWW.MUMOK.AT/
VISIT TIME: 1 HOUR
The youngest of the Museum Quarter buildings, the MUMOK is responsible for the new and contemporary in Vienna. The Ortner & Ortner building is a super-cool stone-clad number housing an internationally recognised collection of Vienna Actionism (artists in the 60th made away with conventional techniques in favour of using their bodies and direct sensory experiences). The temporary exhibitions are alright, usually on the Conceptual side of the spectrum.
JUDENPLATZ HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL
WEBSITE: NONE
VISIT TIME: A FEW MINUTES
British sculptor Rachel Whiteread’s memorial in the Judenplatz is, as the commissioning patron said in its unveiling, a monument that mustn’t be beautiful, it must hurt. And hurt it does. The reverse, empty books, arranged uniformly and systematically are a stark contrast to the baroque architecture surrounding it. Like a silent generator, it emits an energy that is sobering and sad.
VIENNA CONTEMPORARY
WEBSITE: WWW.VIENNACONTEMPORARY.AT
VISIT TIME: 2 HOURS TO SEE THE FAIR, LONGER FOR THE SURROUNDING PROGRAMME (AND PARTIES!)
If you are looking to get a bit more international art out of your trip, go mid-September (check dates) for ViennaContemporary, the city’s international art fair. Art fairs are a sort of ‘trade show’ where you can find a concentration of commercial galleries showing (and selling) their best. Though not the biggest or best of the fairs, it has recently undergone a rebrand and the new programme is enjoyable, with a majority of Viennese and German galleries exhibiting.