MIAMI
I’m not sure if it was always like this but Miami is as much Latin as it is American giving it a unique sound. It is a Basel Art Fair city so, predictably, fair season is the best time to go (December), with over 20 satellite fairs and the Foundations pulling out the best in their collections, in a boastful yet friendly ‘who-got-the-best-art’ rivalry.
ART BASEL | MIAMI BEACH
WEBSITE: WWW.ARTBASEL.COM/MIAMI-BEACH
VISIT TIME: 2-3 DAYS, FIRST WEEK OF DECEMBER (USUALLY)
This really is the ‘fun’ fair from all of the Basels, of which there are three now. The American edition holds true for having a strong gallery presence from north and south America. As ever, this is essentially a trade show, with galleries from the world displaying their best for big collectors on the first few days, and the general public after. It’s a great way to see latest trends in the commercial world and enjoy a cocktail or two on the beach when you are done.
THE BASS MUSEUM
WEBSITE: THEBASS.ORG
VISIT TIME: 45 MINUTES
Miami Beach’s contemporary museum, The Bass reopened in 2017 after a renovation which extended its footprint and renovated the gallery spaces. It remains relatively small, but the programme is exciting with shows of mid-career and established international artists, reflecting the now international nature of Miami. There is a spattering of sculptures on the palm-lined front lawn which faces the ocean. The Ugo Rondinone has become an icon of the art scene in Miami.
ICA MIAMI
WEBSITE: WWW.ICAMIAMI.ORG
VISIT TIME: 30 MINUTES
The Institute of Contemporary Art is the child of divorce following a legal battle which split the collection of the MOCA in North Miami. Like most divorced children, it was ploughed with money but remains a bit confused. The elegant metal-faced building was designed by Aranguren + Gallegos and is decked out with sweeping gallery spaces and a sculpture garden, which all spell promise for this latest addition to the Miami scene.
MARGULIES COLLECTION AT THE WAREHOUSE
WEBSITE: WWW.MARGULIESWAREHOUSE.COM
VISIT TIME: 30 MINUTES
Located in the super-cool Wynwood neighbourhood in Miami known for its many bright murals, the collection is that of Martin Z. Margulies housed in a massive 45k square foot warehouse. If you come to see one thing, let it be the Kiefer rooms. Katherine Hinds, the collection’s curator, wisely advised to snap up the installation from the Royal Academy of Arts (London)’s Kiefer show in 2014, so it can now be seen year round in Miami. There is also a wonderful Ernesto Neto installation and a David Claerbout film which is absolutely brilliant, though the collection is rehung regularly so there might be something else on view when you go.
PÉREZ ART MUSEUM MIAMI (PAMM)
WEBSITE: PAMM.ORG
VISIT TIME: 1.5 HOURS
Established when Miami had little by way of a contemporary art offer, or any art at all in fact, PAMM led the way to make Miami what it is. In its 35 years it has evolved and changed its mission statement from exhibiting Jorge M. Pérez’s collection to the display of international contemporary art, representing the diverse population of the city. Herzog & de Meuron are the architects of the new building next to the waterfront which is surrounded by a still expanding sculpture garden. The collection is diverse and the changing displays are influenced by recent acquisitions.
RUBELL MUSEUM
WEBSITE: RCF.MUSEUM
VISIT TIME: 1 HOUR
Opened in 2019, the museum is made up of 6 converted warehouses, in the Allapattah neighbourhood of Miami. Architect Annabel Selldorf worked with owners Don and Mera Rubell to create a single floor or 40 continuous galleries, library, and courtyard restaurant, dedicated to the display of the collection. Called ‘museum’ rather than ‘foundation’, this prepares the visitor for a museum size and quality visit, thought it does display works entirely from the Rubell collection, which has over 2,700 works of art. The collection and building are wonderful, and better by far than some of the other foundation spaces that don’t have the finesse to properly curate their displays. The variety in the collection is staggering so there is bound to be something for everyone. Notably, there are some great early works by some household names, who the Rubell’s smartly snapped up before their prices became astronomical.
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